War Time Kokoda Track Discovered

‘’Wartime Kokoda Track” Re Discovered
“In the footsteps of heroes”
By Wayne Wetherall – Kokoda Spirit
The story of our Australian Diggers and their Papuan Brothers on the Kokoda Track has become folklore, an Australian legend. The courage, endurance, mateship and sacrifice shown by our boys have made them and the Kokoda Track an Australian Icon.
The Kokoda Track is one of the World’s great treks, surrounded by impenetrable jungle, raging rivers that have cut deep into the brooding mountains and then plunge into ragged, tortuous valleys that crisscross the track.
The Kokoda Track is also the home for the Koiari and Orokaiva people the original “Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels”. This is their native walking track and encompasses many side tracks or trails that thread their way across the Owen Stanley Ranges.
My team and I have crossed the track many times on research, training and exploration treks to ensure the story of the Kokoda Track is as accurate as possible.
Our latest research project involved the survey of the Kokoda Track from Ower’s Corner to Imita Ridge in search of the infamous “Golden Staircase” and from Imita Ridge to Amoduri and the new village of Nauro in search of the western war track that runs parallel to the existing walking track.
There has been recent media attention regarding mining along the track and claims from “Track Historians” and “Kokoda Track Specialists,” that parts of the Kokoda Track are not original “War Time” tracks but merely easier “Tourist Tracks”. I also had reservations about the authenticity of the track that we were walking on and decided to investigate deeper.
We engaged the assistance of the local Koiari landowners, Village Elders and our local PNG Trek Masters to ascertain their understanding of the location of the “Original War Time Kokoda Track.” We also spoke to Lt Nicholas Walsh, Engineer in Charge of Owers Corner. This local knowledge was backed up with my recent survey of the area by helicopter, World War 11 maps, survey maps from 1966 and 1973 and Global positioning technology.
Observations
On our walk down from Owers Corner to Goldie River we uncovered sections of the original “zigzag track” cut by the Australian Engineers. This original track is just west of the existing walking track. This track was cut in the zigzag formation into the steep slope to lessen the severity of the slope and aid the progress of supplies carried forward by the mules and pack horses on their journey towards Imita. This is also the track that the 25-pounder guns were manhandled down the slope from Ower’s Corner, beyond Uberi and travelled towards Imita.
The original zigzag track is also clearly visible on crossing of the first stream into Dump 66. This zigzag track was also cut into the ridge heading from Dump 66 towards Imita Ridge. This track is clearly defined on the eastern slope of the existing walking track.
It is possible to divert off the existing walking track and easily join the original “zigzag track”. The original track winds its way up the ridge and rejoins the existing track at the first rest area on the existing track. The discovery of this original track would support the belief that the “Golden Stairs” are on the existing track climb to Imita Ridge. We also found a number of weapon pits on this existing track and on the zigzag tracks towards Imita Ridge.
Just north of Dump 66 is an alternative track that leads east back down towards Goldie River before turning upwards on the opposite ridge towards Imita. This ridge also showed potential for steps to have been cut leading up to the ridgeline. This track emerges east of the existing track crossing of Imita Ridge. This track follows the base of the rock walls that made Imita such a great defensive position. In this area there are a number of defensive gun pits possibly occupied by the 2/33 and 3rd battalions. It is also possible that this track was extensively used by the 36th battalion as they patrolled east and west of the existing track. The track then crosses Imita Gap very near the existing track before appearing to descend west of the existing track down past the weapon pits to Ua Ule Creek.
The “Golden Stairs”
We were very fortunate to travel and meet with a number of knowledgeable Elders along the Kokoda Track, who confirmed the positioning of the “Golden Stairs” along the existing southern slope to Imita Ridge. They confirmed that there was some 1000 steps cut into the ridge after the creek crossing but were adamant when I showed them the Australian War Memorial photo AWMPO2423.009 of the Golden Stairs that the “Golden Stairs were not in this area but on the southern slope to Iorabaiwa Ridge north of the last Ua Ule creek crossing. On our investigation in the area north of Ua Ule Creek on the Iorabaiwa Ridge we managed to clear a 100m section of track just 3m west of the existing track that clearly showed the existence of a cut and prepared section of track.
On comparison of the AWM photo it was very clear to all that this was the fabled “Golden Stairs” that featured in the picture. This climb had nearly 4000 steps cut into the track and was known to the locals as the “step ladder”. Our guides and Elders also insisted that there were 1000’s of steps cut into the northern side of Imita Ridge west of the existing Kokoda Track heading down towards Ua Ule Creek. This was quite apparent that steps were also cut into the northern side of Imita Ridge when you compare the gradients of both sides. The southern approach to Imita is quite gentle with the northern descent being extremely steep and treacherous. They also made very strong references to numerous other sets of stairs along the track including 1000s of steps rising up to the old war time village of Iorabaiwa.
Perhaps the final word should go to our Army Engineer Lt Nicholas Walsh. He stated that the “Golden Stairs were on the southern side of Imita Ridge. “I should know. I built the bloody things!” It is clearly apparent that there are many different sets of “Golden Stairs” along the Kokoda Trail.
War Time Kokoda Track
Our investigations took us down from Ponoon to Ofi Creek in search of the original war time Kokoda Track to Nauro. On many occasions I have discussed the positioning of the original track with the landowners and Elders along this section of track. They all consistently insisted that a small section of the track from Dump 88 to Jap’s Ladder was a subsidiary or village track to Nauro.
Armed with my trusted band of guides, landowners, Elders, GPS and World War 11 maps, survey maps and my recent fly over of the area we set off to put the discussions to rest.
Observations
On the track north of Dump 88 on a rise in the track and just before the Japanese Camp (Japanese trenches) we reach a fork in the track. The original war time track heads down the ridgeline towards the abandoned village of Eida, while the current track continues along the ridgeline towards “Jap’s Ladder”.
It has a surreal feel as we veer off the ridgeline into the partially cleared former village. The Jungle has once again consumed the former village.
Our search of the area revealed numerous war artefacts including, metal boxes, containers, Dixies, water bottles, ammunition, weapon pits and cable. The most telling evidence of the authenticity of this original war time Kokoda Trail was the discovery of the communication cable running down the valley towards the Esorea River. The track then crosses the river before rising up towards Jap’s Ladder to rejoin the existing track. The track also splits near the Esorea River diverting along the valley and around the ridgeline. This track then continues down past the abandoned villages of Odobaiwa and Begai towards Amoduri near the Brown River. Amoduri or Hamuduri is the existing trekker camp site in the swamp lands on the southern side of the Brown River. This is the track patrolled by Robson and his men in September/October 1942. It is also interesting to note that the Japanese Camp is north of the turn off to the original war time track. The Japanese Camp or Japanese trenches face east of the existing track looking towards Ponoon and old Iorabaiwa. This positioning also shows that the Japanese were concerned about being out flanked on the eastern side, or the side of the valley near the proposed mine site. This was also the site off one of the Japanese Mountain Guns. There is also a series of scattered weapon pits along the existing track to Jap’s Ladder that would indicate that this area was also patrolled by both the Australian’s and Japanese.
Conclusion
The evidence would suggest that there is more than one original Kokoda Trail in this area and the two tracks that we investigated split just north of Dump 88 thus bypassing the existing walking track. The existing walking track was also used during the war as a war track and as a Village Track. It is difficult to discount the possibilities that both Armies patrolled extensively on both sides of the ridge in search and probing exercises to out flank one another.
The existing walking track will be continued to be used for the present to ensure that the people of the Village of Nauro benefit from trekkers passing through their village. If it becomes necessary to utilise the other track due to mining then this is possible and certainly the Kokoda Track will be authentic.
I think it is pretty common knowledge that there is more than one “Golden Stairs” along the Kokoda Track. I would also suggest that the location of the “Golden Stairs” in the Australian War Memorial Photo is on the southern slope to Iorabaiwa Village not far past the last crossing of Ua Ule Creek.
It is very apparent that there is many alternative tracks cut along the Kokoda Trail and more than one original, authentic war time Kokoda Track. As the battles progressed new tracks and trails were cut to service the needs of the Australian Soldiers along the Kokoda Trail.

Alternative Kokoda Track

I have attached an article regarding the Kokoda Track that was published in The Australian Newspaper on March 5 2008. It relates to our research into alternative Kokoda Trails in the Nauro area.We will continue our research and ongoing investigation into the other Kokoda Tracks that run in the area. We plan to walk the other sections of the Kokoda Track later this month. It is important to remember that there is many alternative routes across Kokoda. These alternative tracks were used both by the Australian's and the Japanese during the battles on the Kokoda Track. The majority of your trek will have you walk on the original or main Kokoda Track, which is clearly evident by the large number of weapon pits, spent ammunition spread along the trail. Some sections of the main Kokoda Trail have been lost to the jungle or changed courses due to landslips etc. Kokoda Spirit will continue to ensure that all our trekkers experience the real spirit along the Kokoda Trail. Hopefully our ongoing explorations along the Kokoda Trail will open up new opportunities and experiences for our trekkers.

Kokoda fight may be off the track
Michael Davis The Australian March 05, 2008
THE Rudd government may be mistakenly trying to protect a part of the Kokoda Track that was not of any historical significance during WW2.Local landowners want to mine a section of the track for its rich veins of copper deposits, reaping up to $600 million towards much-needed local infrastructure. But the Australian government is opposing renewal of the mining lease and wants all 96 kilometres of the historic track to be heritage listed."(But) the area of the Kokoda Track that is in dispute with the mine may not be the original track," trekking tour leader, Wayne Wetherall said yesterday."There are three tracks that run through this area. The original and main track runs west of the track that the trekkers walk on. Trekkers are not walking on the original main track, but a subsidiary or village track" he said."The Australian government is trying to protect an area of the track that was not heavily used during the war."Mr Wetherall said he had the original maps to prove his point. "This could be very embarrassing for the government. They need to get their facts straight."Mr Wetherall, who lives on the Sunshine Coast and has been leading treks along Kokoda Track for the past six years, said his trekking group - Kokoda Spirit - had been invited to walk the track with the local Nauro people, the landowners pushing for the mine.He said with the help of the Nauro people, his company was trying to re-discover and re-open sections of the other original wartime track in the area."We have its location and have walked sections of it. It is a treasure trove of military history," Mr Wetherall said.Kokoda Spirit trek leaders - many of them descendants of the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels who helped Australian troops during the war - recently discovered four full Japanese skeletons in the area. It is believed to be the first time in more than 30 years that a full Japanese skeleton has been unearthed.The skeletons were found at Templeton's Crossing, near Mt Bellamy, the highest point on the trail.Early in the Kokoda campaign, Australian soldiers made a stand at Mt Bellamy, constantly repelling the advancing Japanese enemy with their patrols.Repeatedly the Australian soldiers fell back to prepared defences as the Japanese supply lines became hopelessly extended. The enemy soldiers eventually became sick, hungry and diseased.The Australian War memorial estimates the Japanese lost 127,600 men in and around Papua New Guinea, most of them with no known grave.

Official Notification of Kokoda Track Reopened

Good Morning
Well it has officially happened. The reopening of the Kokoda Track-Kokoda Trail. I have pasted below some news articles for your information.
Kokoda Spirit has it first trek out now on the Kokoda trail, they left Sunday from Kokoda, before the official announcement. All of our treks over the Kokoda Track will continue as normal.

Kokoda landowners lift blockade
March 10, 2008 - 6:05PM
Papua New Guinean landowners have lifted a blockade of the historic Kokoda Track and are seeking compensation amid signs a controversial mining project will be canned.
Koiari landowners on Monday said they'd been told the PNG government would not renew an exploration licence for Australian company Frontier Resources, which wants to mine gold and copper along part of the track.
The project would have earned the landowners up to A$100 million over 10 years, but has been opposed by Australia, amid fears mining activity would damage 600 metres of the historic World War II track.
The route is a pilgrimage site for thousands of Australians who walk it each year, remembering the 600 diggers who died there fighting the Japanese.
Landowners staged a blockade of the track earlier this year, in an attempt to pressure the government to renew Frontier's licence.
Earlier this week during a trip to PNG, Australian Prime Minister Kevin Rudd said a compromise that would satisfy all parties should be finalised at ministerial meetings next month in Madang, in PNG's north-east.
On Monday, the landowners said they were seeking a compensation package to make up for their losses from any decision to can the mining project.
The package would be focused on improving infrastructure, and should be jointly funded by the PNG and Australian governments, they said.
"(PNG's mining minister Puka) Temu told us this morning they will forego mining and will look at our compensation package to decide," local leader Bagua Watti said.
"We have given him our development and compensation claims and will wait for April's ministers' conference to see the outcomes."
Barney Jack - a spokesman for the Kodu Resource Owners Association, a local landowners' group - said locals wanted the two national governments to build schools and health centres, and seal roads with a view to establishing a highway linking Kokoda villages.
"We have reopened the track for tourism and trekkers," he said.
"We believe we have made a fair request. The governments must do something to improve infrastructure."
Kokoda Track Authority executive officer Warren Bartlett said Temu had indicated last week that Frontier's exploration licence would not be renewed.
"Temu suggested it is unlikely a licence will be issued and is prepared to make a compensation payment for loss of income," he said.
"We are happy the track is open again as there will be a commitment to infrastructure that goes with it."
A spokesman from Temu's office said a meeting took place on Monday and more would follow.
"All matters of social-economic progress for all stakeholders will come about for the Madang meeting," he said.© 2008 AAP

Landowners agree to reopen Kokoda Track
By PNG correspondent Steve Marshall
Posted Mon Mar 10, 2008 6:22pm AEDT Updated Mon Mar 10, 2008 8:28pm AEDT
Protest: Upset Kokoda track landowners closed the track last month in support of a proposed copper mine (file photo) (ABC TV)
Kokoda Track landowners have agreed to reopen the war time trail to tourists after being given an ultimatum by the Papua New Guinea Government.
Upset Kokoda track landowners closed the track last month in support of a proposed copper mine that would give them a better life.
However spokesman Barney Jack says the landowners were given no choice by the PNG Government after it told them that no mining would be taking place.
"We are left with no other option because the Government said there would be no mining, because of the environmental issues they keep telling us about," he said.The landowners are seeking a compensation package worth over $100 million.

Kokoda Track Open!!!!!

I have just received notification that the Kokoda Track is to reopen immediately. This is to be officially announced by the PNG National Executive Council this afternoon.All operations along the Kokoda Track will continue as normal.What great news!CheersWayne

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Kokoda Track or Kokoda Trail?

There has been a lot of debate around regarding the name Kokoda Track or Kokoda Trail. I thought I would try and give some clarification on the matter.

The name Kokoda Track and Kokoda Trail are both officially used and recognised. The information from the Australian War Memorial highlights the dual usage of the names.
The memorial at the start of the Kokoda Track/Kokoda Trail at Ower’s Corner has on one side the words the Kokoda Track and the other side the Kokoda Trail. The main route across Kokoda is referred to as the Kokoda Trail; all tracks leading off the Kokoda Trail are called Kokoda Tracks. Please understand that there is more than one route across the Owen Stanley Ranges.

You may also be interested in knowing that documentation shows orders from the 25th Brigade order, recorded in the 2/33 Battalion diary in September 1942 to the effect that the main ‘line of communication’ was to be called the ‘Trail’ but the subsequent paths of which there were many were to be referred to as ‘Tracks’. The best qualified to comment on the name was none other than legendary Bert Kienzle who was the principle organiser of the “Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels” who referred to it as the trail. His words were” one walks a trail and one cuts a track.
See excerpt below from the Australian War Memorial.

Australian Military UnitsKokoda Trail Campaign

The Kokoda Trail was a path that linked Ower's Corner, approximately 40 km north-east of Port Moresby, and the small village of Wairopi, on the northern side of the Owen Stanley mountain range. From Wairopi, a crossing point on the Kumusi River, the Trail was connected to the settlements of Buna, Gona and Sanananda on the north coast. Its name was derived from the village of Kokoda that stood on the southern side of the main range and was the site of the only airfield between Port Moresby and the north coast.

Having had their initial effort to capture Port Moresby by a seaborne landing disrupted by the battle of the Coral Sea, the Japanese saw the Kokoda Trail as a means by which to advance on it overland. Troops of the South Seas Detachment began landing at Gona on 21 July 1942, intending initially just to test the feasibility of the Kokoda Trail as a route of advance, but a full-scale offensive soon developed. The first fighting occurred between elements of the Papuan Infantry Battalion and the 39th Australian Infantry Battalion at Awala on 23 July. Although steadily reinforced by the battalions of 30th and 21st Brigades, the Australian force was unable to hold back the Japanese. It was poorly equipped, had not yet developed effective jungle warfare tactics, and was fighting at the end of a very long and difficult supply line. A number of desperate delaying actions were fought as the Australians withdrew along the Trail. They finally stopped on 17 September at Imita Ridge, the last natural obstacle along the Trail, a mere 8 km from the junction with the road to Port Moresby. The Japanese held the opposite ridge, 6 km distant at Ioribaiwa.

The tactical situation, however, had now swung in favour of the Australians. Their artillery at Ower's Corner was now in range and their supplies could be trucked most of the way forward; whereas Japanese supplies had to be carried all the way from the north coast. As a result of severe losses suffered by the Japanese on Guadalcanal following the American landing there, the South Seas Detachment was ordered to withdraw to the north coast of Papua and establish a defensive position there. Australian troops of the 25th Brigade began to edge forward from Imita Ridge on 23 September; the Japanese withdrew from Ioribaiwa the next day. In the course of their retreat the Japanese fought delaying actions every bit as determined as those of the Australians. Several difficult and costly battles were fought before the 16th and 25th Brigades crossed the Kumusi at Wairopi in mid-November heading for even more bitter fighting around the Japanese beachheads at Gona, Buna and Sanananda.

The Kokoda Trail fighting was some of the most desperate and vicious encountered by Australian troops in the Second World War. Although the successful capture of Port Moresby was never going to be precursor to an invasion of Australia, victory on the Kokoda Trail did ensure that Allied bases in northern Australia, vital in the coming counter-offensive against the Japanese, would not be seriously threatened by air attack. Approximately 625 Australians were killed along the Kokoda Trail and over 1,600 were wounded. Casualties due to sickness exceeded 4,000.

"Kokoda Trail" and "Kokoda Track" have been used interchangeably since the Second World War and the former was adopted by the Battles Nomenclature Committee as the official British Commonwealth battle honour in October 1957.

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Japanese Skeleton Remains Found

I thought I would give you a brief update of my recent visit to PNG and the Kokoda Track. I have just recently returned from PNG, where Kokoda Spirit conducted a professional development program with its Trek Masters. This development course involved remote first aid training; Kokoda Track history and trek management practices. As part of this training we walked the Kokoda Track and put our new skills to use. We also had the opportunity to explore old war time tracks.

During this trek across Kokoda we discovered the remains of four Japanese Soldiers. I have been in contact with the Japanese Embassy in Port Moresby and they have sent a situation report and photos to Tokyo. The remains are nearly all complete and were buried side by side. The remains appear to be buried to depth of 50cms. They are however in a very vulnerable position perched on a river bank in the Mt Bellamy area.

The Japanese Embassy has marked the report urgent to help speed up the recovery process of the remains on the Kokoda Track. We have secured the area and built a levy wall around the site to help protect it.

I believe these Japanese Soldiers were from the 41st Regiment killed in an Australian Ambush by the 2/16th battalion between 3 and 5 September 1942. There was also another battle in this area during the Japanese withdrawal and Australian advance. The 41st Regiment was withdrawn to Kokoda and Buna in September 1942, as the Japanese believed the allies would make landings at Buna and cut them off. The Japanese 144st Regiment then took over the advance to Iorabaiwa.

During the withdrawal this same Regiment (144th) dug- in around the Mt Bellamy area. The Australian 2/33rd Battalion encountered their first resistance here on October 11, 1942; it took them 4 days to clear this area, so it is also possible that the Japanese were killed during this period. (This information supplied by Bill James)

Below is the reply from the Japanese Embassy.

Dear Mr. Wetherall,

Thank you for your email and photos. Today I will send the information to Tokyo including new skeltons you found. Also, I would like to say thank you for your kind support to keep the remains from flood. I am afraid of possibility of flood erosion, but since I write "urgent" in my report, I hope that a mission to recover the remains will be dispatched as soon as possible.If you visit the area in the future, I am glad if you let me know the situation.

Regards,

*************************************
Susumu KiyosawaEmbassy of Japan in Papua New Guineatel:
+675-321-1800 (ex.503) fax: +675-321-7906
*************************************

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Kokoda Track Update - Mining Kokoda

I was at the Helicopter pad in Port Moresby when the Frontier Resources crew flew to Nauro to stage there symbolic protest closure of the Kokoda Track. They had the cardboard and protest signs pretty much already drafted for the staged media event of the closing of the Kokoda Trail.

It was a fairly desperate attempt by the mining company to try and force the hand of the Government and to manipulate the feelings and emotions of the landowners.It is interesting to note that the exploration licence had elapsed 6 months earlier, so why so much activity now?

I was fortunate that Sam, the Nauro Chairman was gracious enough to spend some time with me on my recent trek across the Kokoda Track, explaining the locations of some alternative tracks in his area and also expressing his and the Clans feelings. The Nauro Chairman was extremely positive towards trekking in general continuing but had negative feelings towards a certain trekking company for past promises of resources, including aid posts, education, roads and airfields that never materialised. He could see mining not only delivering vast income and employment but essential services such as first aid care, education facilities, and road and air access to POM.

At present they have to walk to Ower’s Corner to pick up transport to take them to POM. They recently had the case of one of their young village members dying on the walk to POM seeking medical care.

I was also fortunate to attend a meeting of representatives of the Landowners across Kokoda. The overwhelming response was trekking must continue as it delivers the only real source of income to the Landowners and the other stakeholders along the Track.

One of the positives to come out of the protest is the track has now received strong media coverage and highlighted the lack of facilities, funding, training, support and guidance given to the Stakeholders along the Track. They were also very annoyed about the mismanagement, corruption and lack of action taken by the Board of the KTA. The majority of them support the KTA CEO Warren Bartlett, not the KTA Board.

My thoughts are that the exploration permit requested by Frontier Resources will not be renewed. I believe there will be a general review of all mining activities near the Kokoda Track to prevent any further mining issues or situations on or near the Kokoda Trail.

My research has revealed that the mine is in a geophysical unstable area with huge rainfall potential. A huge storm like Cylone Guba that hit the Oro province area and part of the track late last year could destroy a tailings dam very quickly. The resulted environmental damage and health risks to the villages down stream would be catastrophic.

The proposed mine at Mt Kodu is a very large, but low grade mineral deposit. The only way it could successfully function is with a massive open pit mine, with massive through put and enormous amount of wastes to be managed and disposed of. As a comparison the proposed mine is not unlike Ok Tedi. The capital cost to set up such a project could be in excess of US1billion.

With Frontier Mining trading at 11 cents a share, they may have great difficulty in raising a fraction of the amount required to fund the project. This may mean they would need to team up with a major mining house. I believe large scale corporations, like to be seen as good responsible corporate citizens and would be reluctant to invest such large funds in a single project in PNG that is obviously fraught with such social, logistic, political and commercial problems.

My understanding is there will be an announcement of a Kokoda Track Protection or “Icon plan”, which will cover funding of facilities and assistance to the villages and landowners along the track and perhaps compensation for the mining not going ahead. I believe these decisions will be announced on the upcoming visit by Australians PM Kevin Rudd to PNG on the 6-9th March 2008.

It is my understanding that the track will reopen “ofiicially” within the next 10 days as long as adequate progress is made towards a proper management plan for the Track and adequate consideration is taken to provide suitable resources for the Villages along the Track. It will also take positive reinforcement by the trekking companies to continue to give ongoing support and encouragement to the Landowners and Villages that trekking and Tourism is forever and is sustainable.

I understand plans are moving ahead for a new “Kokoda Icon” plan based on our National Park style system.The sooner we have practical regulations, guidelines and good management practices for the Track by all stakeholders including, Government, Landowners, Trekkers and Trekking companies the sooner we can protect for ever this wonderful living memorial, and continue to walk “in the footsteps of heroes and the footsteps of our brothers”

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