Kokoda Trail Testimonials

Kokoda Spirit takes great pride in providing an exceptional Kokoda Trail experience.  Here is what our clients have to say in their essays and feedback regarding their Kokoda Spirit Kokoda Trail trekking experience.

CYCLONE GUBA UPDATE

Hi Wayne & Michelle,

We just got back to Perth on the 20th of Nov after having an adventure that wasn't planned. The day we left everyone in Kokoda we got into the truck with a group of other people it took us 9 hours to reach Buna due to heavy rain and flooding.

It poured rain and the roads were flooded to waist height. We ended up staying the night at Adrian's house, as it was too dangerous to stay at the guest house on the beach. Adrian and his wife treated us like royalty. Even though it was 10pm at night and pouring down rain, we had a hot meal and cup of coffee prepared for us.

The next morning we set of in the truck making our way through the flooded land, trying to get to Popendetta to confirm out flights. What an adventure, trees were cut down by hand so that the truck could get through some of the worst flooded areas. There were so many obstacles, yet the determination of Adrian and the boys to get us to safety made them unstoppable. The young men from the village ran in front of the truck so that the driver could see the depth before crossing.

Finally determination could take us no further the truck stopped and we got out in the pouring rain, we were awestruck, one of the bridges we had crossed the night before looked like Niagara Falls. The road either side of the bridge was gone. The river was raging and the noise of the water was like thunder. People stood on either side of the road blocked with nowhere to go. We stood in front of what had been the bridge in shock and disbelief that the bridge we had crossed the night before had been washed away.

The truck driver tried the other bridge that was about 2kms away but that was also gone. The formidable raging river was impossible to cross, every bridge that we had crossed the night before had been washed away.

To cut a long story short we ended up in a village trapped between two rivers, with the very real fear that the village that we were in could easily flood too. There had been numerous homes, a school and a couple of children washed away in the floods and it was still pouring rain, and the water level was rising.

The satellite phone was down and all communication was cut off. It took 2 days before Adrian and Charles risked their lives to try and cross the river to try and get to Popendetta, that was the only way to let people know where we were and that we were alive and well. Their first attempt wasn't successful the river was to wild; they left it another day and tried again. They left at 4am called Michelle from Kokoda Spirit and walked back to the village arriving at 6pm at night. They had some nasty cuts on their legs and Adrian had a fever and was really very sick.

We discovered at that point that a cyclone had gone through called Guba and that the flooding was extensive 71 dead and 200 people missing.

We had no fresh water and only a little rice and a few crackers that Adrian had managed to get. Our clothes were soaking and the rains just never seemed to stop.

We waited at the airport for days and just when Adrian decided he was going to walk back to Popendetta we spotted a plane. I didn't want to get my hopes up as a few hours earlier a helicopter had flown overhead circled and flew off into the distance. Adrian and the boys had started walking down the road and had come back; they had spotted the plane coming before we did.

I cried with relief I looked at everyone around me and could see emotion everywhere. The strain of the floods, being away from family, not knowing when we would get out of there, seeing people whose homes had been washed away who had nothing except what they could carry, drinking water that was full of wriggling bugs and long white thread worms (apparently mosquito larvae). The whole experience had been overwhelming for the four of us. My 15yr old son had been great but it was starting to take its toll on us all.

I thought of the poor people that couldn't get out of there and would have to live with this devastation for years to come. I thought of the generosity of people who had nothing yet shared what they had with us. The old lady in the village that kissed my hands and hugged me with tears in her eyes when I left (she wanted me to stay). I thought of the people that had two other families living with them yet made room for the four of us and of Adrian and the boys from Buna that made sure we were safe.

The plane seemed to take forever to land the plane door opened and out came a white man, it was a shock. Adrian said that’s Wayne, tears welled in Adrian's eyes. As Wayne walked towards each of us he held out his hand and asked how we were going. He shook Adrian’s hand and hugged him I stood watching them together with tears running down my face.

I could see tears in Adrian's eyes; he could finally go home to his village after taking care of us. It still brings tears to my eyes, not because of what we went through as we could go home, but for the very the very special men that we did the Kokoda track with, who risked their safety to get us out of the disaster area.

We hugged Adrian, Charles, Bussel and a few others that weren't on the track before getting into the plane. They stayed and waved until we were out of sight.

In the footsteps of heroes in the footsteps of our brothers has a very special meaning for me in more ways than one. For me I had a 5 day extension with heroes and brothers.

Wayne from Kokoda Spirit had been stuck on the track in Efogi during the cyclone. His group had withdrawn to the high ground of Efogi. He had been airlifted the day before us. In the meantime Wayne's wife Michelle had been working endlessly to organise to get us airlifted back to civilisation. She had contacted our families and assured them that we were all fine and spoken with our insurance companies and the Australian Consulate and numerous other Departments in an effort to get us home. In the end Wayne and Michelle from Kokoda Spirit chartered and paid for a plane to pick us up and take us out of Popendetta and return us to Port Moresby.

Since we have been home in Perth I have told everyone that I know about our experience and how Wayne and Michelle from Kokoda Spirit got us out of Oro and paid for a chartered plane. I even talk about how wonderful it was to get a cold coke (normally I wouldn't touch the stuff) and a fresh cream bun waiting for us on the plane (Wayne thought we would really like it and he was right).

We are definitely planning to go back to Buna and have our relaxing beach stay in the guest house. It might take a few years as Adrian's village lost six homes, his own included and the guest house. We will definitely go back and visit our friends near the Popendetta airport. My husband wants to do the Kokoda Track again and is talking about going on another track that Michelle and Wayne do in Borneo. I would highly recommend anyone thinking of doing the Kokoda Track booking with Kokoda Spirit. I know from experience that everyone that forms part of Kokoda Spirit will go out of their way to make sure your adventure is enjoyed and your safety is never in question, no matter what it may cost them personally.

Hope to one day tell you about prisari the razor back pig, the baby that will be named June and the old lady that kissed my hands and cried when I left. There are so many things that make me a better person for having done the Kokoda Trail and for living with people who have so little but give so much.

Warmest Regards
Geoff and June

P.S. It really does bring tears to my eyes thinking about how wonderful everyone has been. Thank you both so much for your kindness. June

Posted December 7, 2007

Australian Army Experiences Tropical Cyclone Guba

7 December 2007

It was 2 years in the planning, to follow in the footsteps of the diggers that fought so gallantly on the Kokoda Track in the Second World War in defence of the Australian mainland.

I was inspired by a panoramic sketch mounted on the wall at the entrance to 48th Field Battery. The panoramic sketch was drawn by a Forward Observer (spotter) in August 1942, from the 13th Field Regiment (SA) of Port Moresby harbour.

I was able to obtain permission from the Australian Army to lead 14 serving members, predominantly gunners of the 48th Field Battery, to conduct a Battlefield Study Tour of the Kokoda Track, 11 – 21 November.

Crucial to the success of ‘Exercise Bold Angel 2007’ was the choice of civilian trekking company. Kokoda Spirit stepped up to the challenge!

There was an enormous amount of administration to be completed. The assistance that Wayne provided in terms of advice on equipment, training and practical experience, and that Michelle provided administratively was outstanding. It was timely, accurate and detailed, exactly what I required as the Activity Commander.

Once in country, Wayne personally briefed the group and led us from Port Moresby to the Bomana War Cemetery. It was evident, even at this early stage, that Wayne was destined to become an integral part of the team. After paying our respects, we were off to Owers’ Corner to begin the trek of a lifetime. Well that was the plan anyway.

Consistent rain led to the deterioration of the track leading to Owers’ Corner and the vehicles were only able to make it just past McDonald’s Corner, coincidentally the starting point for the 39th Militia Battalion’s advance to Kokoda in July 1942. After a 6km slog, we made it to Owers’ Corner ready to begin the track. It was here that Wayne was first presented a ’10 O’clock Club Card’, issued to all Artillery Officers at the School of Artillery during their Regimental Officer’s Basic Course (a gift given unknowingly by Captain Pete Wirth). Wayne was then subjected to days of impromptu lessons along the track, having to complete demanding Q & A sessions to improve his military knowledge!

Geoffrey, our experienced Trek Leader, led the group through the arch and down a treacherous path of clay and water towards Goldie’s Creek. The support offered by Wayne’s ‘A Team’ of porters was sensational and of great assistance in traversing the many inclines and declines to be encountered... over Imita Ridge, across Ua - Ule creek (19 times in one day) and up Ioribaiwa Ridge, called to the peak by Abe and his porter mates who had pressed ahead and began to sing their signature tune.

Due to the rain over the past 3 days, Brown River had swollen to double its width and depth. A half hour crossing had turned into a three hour impromptu rafting exercise, conducted by the porters with the safety of participants paramount. Once across it was ‘The Wall’ to be conquered, and to Menari where we met an original Fuzzy Wuzzy Angel. This was an inspirational experience for the team, to be able to thank him for what he and the other Fuzzy Wuzzy’s did for the diggers in 1942.

After a military history presentation by Sergeant Molyneux and Gunner Hughes the night before (complete with hand painted soldiers and sound effects), the team pressed on to Brigade Hill, the scene of one of the bloodiest battles of the Australian withdrawal. Once again, Wayne and his team of porters provided in depth knowledge of the events that occurred at Brigade Hill, and presented a solemn service in respect of those fallen.

Unfortunately, it was here that we were presented with the news than the rain was not due to the onset of the wet, but due to the effects of Tropical Cyclone Guba. Guba had destroyed the Oro Province, from Kokoda north to the beachhead villages of Buna and Gona. All rotary wing aircraft were redirected to aid in the relief effort, denying us air support in case of a medical emergency. We learnt that the distant rolling of thunder was in fact the noise created by landslides, and Eora Creek had flooded, destroying the bridges and flooding Kokoda.

Wayne and Gideon, his trusted and experienced Trek Master, made the wise decision to move the group to Efogi. Efogi had a grassed airfield, capable of landing fixed wing aircraft.

The professionalism, knowledge and experience of Wayne and his team at Kokoda Spirit was now coming to the fore. Their communication systems had alerted us to the impending dangers; Wayne’s initiative had secured the only pilot capable of landing at Efogi and a fixed wing aircraft available to conduct an evacuation when there was a break in the weather. Our families were notified of the situation and that we were all safe by Michelle at Kokoda Spirit HQ in Brisbane.

There was disappointment among the team that we would not complete our trek to Kokoda, however we were thankful that we were trekking with a company that held our safety and best interests as their primary importance. Wayne impressed the team with his calmness under pressure, decision making and organisational ability, and communication skills, consulting and informing me of the situation at hand, and ultimately safely returning us to Port Moresby. We did not so much take off from the grassed airstrip at Efogi, more like the land just dropped away from us. No wonder the entire village had come down to say goodbye!

Wayne continued to assist us in Port Moresby, facilitating the team’s accommodation at the Gateway Hotel, making his staff available to assist changing international flights, all the while planning the evacuation of 4 more of his trekkers stranded at Popondetta. Once again, he was able to hire a charter at short notice and evacuate those trekkers in a safe and timely manner.

I have been in the Army for 10 years, and was privileged to work with Wayne, and was impressed with his ability to make things happen in very trying circumstances. I know that years ago Wayne would have jumped at the chance to serve in the Australian Defence Force, and I believe that we were unlucky to miss out on him. He displayed the skills, knowledge and attitudes of current commanders of Australian troops serving overseas on operations.

The disappointment of the team dissipated quickly, replaced with a determination of each member to return to complete the trek to Kokoda, hopefully with Wayne at our side.

To Wayne and Michelle, the porters that accompanied trek 49, and the staff at Kokoda Spirit, thank you for the experience of a lifetime, no other trek will experience what we did.

Scott
Captain Scott Calvert
Activity Commander
Exercise Bold Angel 2007
48th Field Battery
Keswick SA

Posted November 26, 2007

I am 40 years old and a father to 2 kids aged 3 & 8. I started my own small business on the Sunshine Coast 10 years ago and now employ three fulltime staff.

Walking the Kokoda Trail has been a long time goal of mine. Just one of those things you feel compelled to do as a proud Australian before you leave this world for a better place.

In September / October this year (2007) my dream came true, but what made this special place even more memorable were the people who took me there and got me home again. It was Wayne and Michelle Wetherall of Kokoda Spirit.

From their informative web site and downloaded training programmes to their promptness in replying to emails and the ability to just jump on the phone anytime and have all your questions answered was very efficient and professional.

Overall, it was Wayne and Michelle’s passion for their work that made trekking with them an easy choice.

Wayne’s interest and concerns about your fitness and training, (even assisting us to train and checking our fitness level) were second to none. Just knowing that Wayne was doing his best to ensure we made the finish line on our ‘once in a lifetime’ trek impressed me.

Kokoda Spirit’s staff in P.N.G where amazing. They were always offering to help at every turn, nothing was ever a hassle. Their smiles and vibrant personalities almost carried us across the track. I was also surprised at the amount of knowledge they possessed of what had actually occured here during the War, and also their respect for the lives lost.

The significance was certainly not lost on them. Their pride for their own country and proud friends of all Australians who come to this place is extremely encouraging. Great recruiting and people management guys.

My memories of the Kokoda Trail still linger in my mind like the afternoon mist in those jungle clad mountains. An amazing place, an amazing journey with amazing people to make amazing memories that will last a lifetime.

Thanks to the team at Kokoda Spirit for making it such a wonderful experience. Kokoda Spirit’s passion for what they do in P.N.G and for its people are obvious. Keep up the great work!

I have absolutely no hesitation in recommending Kokoda Spirit for your next Kokoda trail experience. Please feel free to call me anytime for a verbal reference on (0408)793362.

Shane Moloney - Buderim

PS: The pleasure has been all mine.

Posted November 7, 2007

EFM Fitness Club survives Kokoda

After 3 months of training the time has come. Like expectant mums 22 spirited trekkers set off through drizzly rain from Ower’s corner not quite knowing to what was ahead. Are we prepared enough?

We were soon hit between the eyes with the magnificent Owen Stanley mountain range our diggers witnessed 65 years ago in very different circumstances. When the going got tough someone always brought us back to earth that we have it good and easy.

Gideon and his band of porters soon bonded with their assigned trekker and were inseparable throughout the trip. These boys were on hand to assist, encourage and joke with when needed. The Kokoda Spirit team knew the track well and always found good fresh water and excellent camps.

Too many highlights to mention all, but the clean, fresh, rawness of the jungle and the proud village folk along the track who make you feel most welcome is also special.

Kokoda Spirit has got the balance of Military History and trekking experience just right. The Kokoda campaign of 1942 was a horrific experience for our troops and you can’t come away without a very special feeling of gratefulness for the sacrifice that was made.

Congratulations Wayne and your team on a wonderful trip of a lifetime.

Richard Mills EFM Fitness Coach

Posted November 2, 2007

Hi Wayne and Michelle,

Thank you very much for your assistance, guidance and professional support for our recent trek across the Kokoda Track.

The Kokoda walk was an incredibly valuable experience for our students. The challenges of the Kokoda Trail propelled our students to greater levels of personal achievement and mental stamina. The trek also allowed us a closer understanding of the historic significance of the battles along the track for both Australia and PNG. The track is a great lesson not only for our students but for all Australian's of the Courage, Endurance, Mateship and Sacrifice by our soldiers on the Kokoda Track. The warmth of the PNG people and the cultural exchange between the students, porters and villages was something very special.

I highly recommend Kokoda Spirit as a trekking company. The trekking staff provided a professional, safe service that was second to none and made the students' and teachers' experience an unforgettable one.

Ben Grayell
Senior Teacher
Chancellor State College

Posted November 1, 2007

Hi Wayne & Michelle,

Thanks for organising a great trek.

Kevin was great with his knowledge and drive and not to mention his brief's of what to expect each day even if it was just steep, steep and more steep.  His debriefs were also great to help the group bond and get in touch with themselves.

I must say that our group of trekker's were fantastic couldn't have got a better bunch of people, I haven't laugh that much in a long time.  I have truly made some great friends we are all staying in touch.

The porters are true angel's and nothing was a bother to them , my porter Sana was there every time I was starting to think I might need some help.

I have been nominated by the Guy's I think mainly "Chilla" to be the central point for all communication of the group and I am collecting photo's to put onto a disc for everybody so if you have any photo's of our group they can be forwarded to me, and I will see that everybody gets them.

I have already recommended your company to several people contemplating the Trek.  After seeing the disarray of other companies on the track it made me realise I had made the right choice, you run a very well organised trek.

Once again thanks,

Natalie Heriot

Posted October 30, 2007

Wayne,

I have arrived back at work to 700+ emails ...... bring back the jungle!!!

Just a quick note to say thank you for a wonderful holiday and experience.

I can't fault the experience, it exceeded my expectations. The jungle was divine, the weather perfect and that team of yours is second to none. We have not stopped raving on about how beautiful those boys of yours are, they are a credit to yourself, the company and their country..... except of course Bob - only joking, he was wonderful.

The patience and the spirit throughout the 9 days was great. I particularly enjoyed your knowledge of the history and the services which included the singing from the locals - this is one thing that I found amazing and un-expected.

From a personal point of view I found that the timing of everything and the expectations that you gave us were spot on - I know we asked too many questions, ie how long up hills, is it going to rain etc etc but I found the management of this worked for me.

I take my hat off to you and the boys for your efforts in keeping 12 'city chicks' happy for 9 long days in the jungle - not sure any man would have (or could have) done a better job, or even survived.

I have some photos for a few of the boys (and girl), if I get them laminated can I send them to you? If so, what is the best address. Or should I send them to Helen??

Thanks again for a great holiday and perhaps we can do it all again in Borneo!!!!

Sarah

Posted October 29, 2007

Hi Wayne,

Just wanted to thank you for your support and humor on the 'track', to me you have a really wonderful sense of humor. The task of pleasing twelve women at once would have seemed to me, enormous and overwhelming but you did a fantastic job keeping up with all the demand.  I bet you were glad to get back to your own 'normal' life and wife.

It was great tracking with your company. Gideon, David and Bob all great personalities.  I will try to send a pair of shoes for David before you go back as this is something I wished to do.

I may have seemed a bit quiet but the beauty of the country and the people blew me away and I was enjoying taking it all in.  I guess I'm a bit older than most of the girls and have a different life and coming from a mature and easy going perspective.  I found you very honest and real and funny, all fantastic qualities.

I had the time of my life.

Thanks again,
Trish xox
My philosophy is 'keep it real' and you are 'real'
Much joy and love and happiness to yourself and your family

Posted October 13, 2007

Wayne

We had a great trip and have recommended you to everyone we talk to.

Colgate and Meddent will try to make this an annual event. Colgate will be using some of the photos for ads in PNG and possibly in Australia. We will keep you informed.  The porters are great ambassadors for PNG, you have done very well

Kind regards

Richard Pickworth
 

Hi Wayne and Michelle,

Had a terrific time, thanks. Track very wet but porters great and organization good.
Will recommend you to others.  Am looking forward to receiving my shirt which I will wear with pride!

Thanks for everything,
Alex

Michelle,

Just a word of thanks and congratulations on the way you managed our little walk. It went extremely well and Bonnie, Frank, Murray and the carriers did a great job. No complaints!

Regards
Frank Lewis

Dear Wayne,

Once again thank you very much for the trip, I enjoyed watching your strength and participating in your humour and good nature, you and the other trekkers made the trip very special for me. I have contacted the War Graves Commission and they are not keen to place the plaque, commemorating the biscuit bombers at Kokoda War Museum, so when you are able to would you please find a special spot on a tree at Myola, which is what I should have done in the first place. If any new clients wish for a reference I am more than happy to recommend you, you can freely give my phone number out. Also I want to show my appreciation, as I felt privileged to be part of the experience.

Thank you very much,
Dean Kenny

Hi Michelle,

Just a short note to let you know how much we enjoyed our trek. Very hard and tortuous and I was glad to see the end, and can now boast about it to all my friends. I feel sorry for the Diggers who did it much tougher than we did. Our thanks to the guide and porters, hope to hear from you soon.

Regards,
Alan and Murray Lamb

Hi Michelle,

I was wondering if you could email me copies of the poems read out at the ceremonies on my recent trek. They really left an impression, as did the trek, and I would love to include them in my diary. I must also forward to you and, especially, Wayne my thanks for a very memorable experience. It wasn't easy but I am sure it would have been a lot harder if not for Wayne's experience as a tour leader at Kokoda. I was also very impressed at the support given to my friend Neville to get him thru even tho he was so unwell. A trek thru Kokoda certainly does alter your life and the way you view the world.

Many thanks,
Bruce George

Posted October 8, 2007

Hello Wayne and Michelle,

Thank you for the wonderful journey that we have recently completed. Wayne - thank you for being such a great guide and for the small white lies and the humour that you bring along with you.  You have a great crew and the boys all have much respect for you.  I still feel the fatigue and I am reliving at times the journey. I know that I will relive the Kokoda many times as it has been one of the highlights of my life's experience.

Thank you once again, regards,
Vicki Davies

Posted August 31, 2007

THE KOKODA EXPERIENCE
by Kate Mo

There were 15 women that came together from different backgrounds, ages and reasons to endure the trek over 9 days, covering 96 kms of extreme terrain, weather conditions and steep mountains to commence the trek on the 14 August 07.

Kokoda…..the experience on the Kokoda Trek is there to be a catalyst to transform one's life consciously or subconsciously.

I personally found the trek itself not as hard as I imagined physically, not to say it wasn’t challenging at times, but not exhausting which allowed the trek to open me to the experience of adventure, to connect to the land, to feel the Spirit of the sacred track and to experience the culture with the beautiful, gentle people of PNG.

From the cultures of traditional village life, the size and magnitude of the rainforest and mountains, crossing raging rivers and witnessing people living in harmony and connected to nature’s cycles with their land is very inspiring and quite surreal to what PNG provides.

We went through a company in PNG, Kokoda Spirit, where the Porters not only looked after our physical bodies, but nurtured our beings on all other levels – emotionally, mentally and spiritually. They literally carried our body, mind and spirits over the mountains and across the rivers. The morning would start of with the boys (porters), singing their songs over looking a breathtaking valley, with fog and mist caressing the mountains and valleys – heartfelt and moving songs about the Kokoda Track, Walking in the Footsteps of Heroes from the Kokoda Campaign in 1942, to Country Road, Take me Home (one we could sing along to) and a song they made up along the way about the spirit of our group – Wild Women Walking the track. Their singing continued along the track during the day as they serenaded us over the mountains and concluded the day singing their music as we came into camp around 4pm each afternoon and around the campfire at night. Their passion for their music and being of service to all that embraced the spirit of the trek was felt on all levels.

The Memorial Service
I personally found the Memorial Service to be very moving, yet distressing at the same time as individuals read verses from two poems “Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels” & “What do you say to a Dying Man” – some of the girls shared the story’s of their grandfather’s and other family members who had been apart of the Kokoda Campaign in 1942, and the ceremony concluded as one – our walking group and our porters as we responded singing to one another’s National Anthem in harmony. I found it quite distressing in the realisation hitting home, of young men, younger than myself, living in the fear of death each day during the duration of the Campaign, to the one’s that lost their lives, to the men that came back with broken spirits, to the mothers that stayed home praying for the return of their son’s and to the level of support the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels provided to these men and their descended brother’s (our porter’s) dedicating their service to our well-being on the trek. These overwhelming feelings stayed with me throughout the next day where I chose to walk in my own space to process the emotions that presented for me from the memorial service and the level of humble support our porters provided. As I moved through these emotions, the trek itself shifted to a new level of awareness and meaning from the third day.

At a few of the battles sites along the way, you could feel the spirit of the young men that lost their lives and the energy of the horrendous conditions and situations the young men endured.

To be seen at the Memorial Site there are four granite pillars that represent the commitment and sacrifice from the diggers, witnessed during the Kokoda Campaign – Mateship, Sacrifice, Endurance and Courage.

The Kokoda Spirit – What does it mean?
Over the last five years I have listened to motivating speakers, I have read many inspiring books, attended life changing seminars / retreats seeking inspiration, connection and direction to life and myself, which at the time all have served their purpose and lead me to the next chapter throughout my life – yet as I embraced and opened myself to the spirit of the Kokoda Track, one could feel the seeds of transformation being planted with regard to a new direction that will unfold for me in due course time, as I settle back into life here in Adelaide.

To walk in the footsteps of heroes, to walk in the footsteps of our brothers, is an experience in itself – an awareness that comes into your vicinity with regard to our preconceived limitations of our physical ability endurance, the power of our mind and reminds us that the human spirit and our boundaries are only limited by our ability to dream, believe and achieve.

Since returning last Friday, 24 August, I have struggled to articulate the experience into words. What does come to mind though at this point in time, is Nelson Mandela’s quote:

“There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unchanged. To find the ways in which you yourself have changed.”
- Nelson Mandela

Upon returning I have come across a poem written by an Anzac of the Kokoda Track which reflects the alignment I feel to the words the author expresses about the meaning of the Kokoda Spirit, as experienced on the trek personally. The company we went with – “Kokoda Spirit” embraces the essence of the following poem, hence where the Company’s name originates from – Kokoda Spirit – Walking in the Footsteps of Heroes.

The Kokoda Spirit
I was which others did not want to be.
I went where others feared to go.
And did what others failed to do.
I ask nothing from which give nothing.

I have learnt to accomplish great things,
We must not only act,
But also dream; not only plan but also believe.

Patience is the essential quality of man.
There are many paths
To whatever path you choose in life be always true to yourself.
If you stand in your own truth you don’t have shame.

I have learnt the power of the mind is infinite while brawn is limited.
There is no glory without suffering,
whilst for time favours the brave and success is never blamed.

Through exhilaration of victory or devastation in defeat.
I have walked through life with right foot foremost
and kept my nose to the wind and my eyes on the horizon.

Reluctantly I accepted the thought of Eternal loneliness,
Should I fail.
For the greatest glory is not in never falling but in rising every time we fall.

I have learnt we are made wise not by recollection of our past, but responsibility for our future.
What is hidden within will dictate what will appear on the outside.
That which we did not confront in ourselves we will meet as fate.

I have learnt what we do in life echoes in eternity and our lives and remembered by the gifts we give our children.
I have seen the face of terror, felt the stinging cold of fear and endowed the blood, sweat and tears in training.
I have felt the smoothness of technique and skill, tasted the victory in battle.

I have learnt that technique must transcend, so that the art becomes an artless art, growing out of the unconsciousness.

I have discovered that nothing is impossible to a willing mind, for a man who has attained mastery of an art reveals it in his every action.
And has developed the confidence of who he is.
I have cried, pained and hoped.
But most of all I have had times others would say are best forgotten.
At least someday I will be able to say that I was proud of who I am……

Written by Rob Gear – A True Warrior

************************************************************

The essence of the Kokoda Spirit, was virtually with us from the moment we started training. On one of our first group trainings, on our way to Deep Creek, after Normanville, we witnessed a Kangaroo being hit by a car traveling in front of us, as the mother’s joey rolled out of her pouch. Unfortunately the mother Kangaroo died on the side of the road, however we rescued the joey and took him into the Wildlife Sanctuary at Normanville – later on we heard along the grapevine they had given the joey the name “Spirit”.
Half way along the Kokoda Track, after leaving one of the villages, we realised a puppy had followed us out onto the track – so the boys decided to carry the puppy over the mountains and he remained with us until the last village. And the name the boys gave the puppy was “Spirit”.

On a much lighter note, we had plenty of laughs and silly moments, apparently it was the first time for some of the Kokoda Spirit crew (porters etc) had taken a group of women through and they thought we lived up to the name of “Wild Women Walking”. We had a lot of interesting, and amusing conversations on track both with each other and with our porters.

Half way through the trek, the boys came up with PNG names for each of us. Mine was “Puri Puri Meri” meaning Magic Healing Woman or Medicine Woman – that’s another story behind my name! As a whole they thought we were “Lung Lung Meris” Crazy Women!!! I’m sure they learnt a lot from our culture as white women, as much as we learnt from them and their ways of responding and working with life!

The toilet facilities were certainly not 5 star and another talking point along the trek! They were a hole in the ground with wooden planks around the hole, the smell was from out of this world (if we had to brace ourselves with squatting over these toilets, we all placed our bandanas over our noses, held our breath, visualized we were somewhere else and got the hell out of there very quickly), with bugs and insects flying and walking around. When the opportunity was there we all did our squatting out in the jungle. Our code to venture into the jungle for a squat was “going off to have a rumble in the jungle!”
One of the girl’s just couldn’t take to the concept of not only squatting over the toilet facilities but in the jungle as well, so on the second night in her tent after dinner, she came up with an innovative idea with the stool she brought along the trek. She cut out the material in the centre of the stool and for the rest of the trip she waited until nature to call in the evenings, and she would sit on her stool in the tent and aim through the whole that she cut out, and delivered the waste that was excreted into a plastic bag that was attached underneath the stool!!! - She’s coming back to start a business for Venture Camping Company’s for “Squatting Stools” in Adelaide. The porters found out about this along the way and apparently it got around to all the other trekking groups we passed along the way!!!

There was one particular group that we crossed paths with about four times and there was a guy who looked and apparently was quite accident prone like the comedian Russel Coyte. At different stages along the way, he always had a pair of undies on his head with the purpose of drying them for the following day to wear and sometimes a second or third pair on his walking stick and on the back of his day pack. So there was a joke in passing with this guy about what pair no. he had on his head. One occasion he had fallen off a side of a cliff and the next time we saw him he had a bandage wrapped around his head and another time he was erecting his clothing line, it flung back in his face and injured his eye. For couple of days he was walking with a bandage around his head, an eye patch and yes with his undies around his head, walking stick and day pack – he was rather amusing!

I would have no hesitation in recommending Kokoda Spirit (the Company that took great care of us on the track) and Gideon and his crew to anyone who is looking for an adventure of a lifetime and to move through any challenges you may be facing in your present life situation. Depending on where your attitude and perception of life is at, the trek itself can certainly be seen as a “Metaphor of Life” and a reflection of how we do life back home with regard to the challenges and lessons that may present for individuals along the way on the track. Once you get on the track and find your own walking rhythm, the little things in life we all find ourselves worrying about, seem to disappear and you find yourself relaxing and enjoying the PNG’s life of getting back to basics, the simplicity of living and reconnecting to nature and yourself on that deeper, refined level.

At the end of the trek we all arrived back into Pt Morseby in very different spaces and new perceptions to integrate back into our lives.

On a metaphoric level for me, as I approached each mountain to climb and descend along the trek, I was pondering how we all at times can find ourselves in fear and resistance when we don't trust that where we are going is better than where we've been. And what would we create right
now in our lives if we knew we couldn't fail?

So for me, one of my main realisations I have had thus far, by taking each step as it came on the track, - ( I'm taking this concept into my life) to take one radical action step in an area of my life I have been procrastinating, avoiding and resisting and give myself permission to just go for it and see what unfolds and how the universe responds to support this commitment!!!


It feels very surreal to be back at work sitting at my desk this week. It was truly a wonderful experience and many special moments shared with the 6 girls I walked with and our porters – the spirit of the track will continue to integrate with me as I settle back into life in Adelaide and I’m sure I will find myself reflecting for quite some time to come.

Looking forward to returning to the sacred Kokoda Trail to embrace the essence of the PNG again – the people, their land and the Kokoda Spirit. I intend to go back again next year and walk the track from Ower’s Corner (the other direction) – so if you feel the spirit of the track calls you, would love to share the experience with you!

Kate Moody
Share the experience with you!

Posted August 21, 2007

Thank you Wayne,

Thanks again for the most exhilarating experience of trekking Kokoda with you. Your involvement of all people in the group made us all feel good in accomplishing the journey. Your descriptions of the battle sites made the Bill James book come alive and your ceremonies at Bomana, Brigade Hill and Isurava allowed some emotional respect as we remembered our forefathers and what they achieved.

Just as the soldiers respected the Fuzzy Wuzzy Angels we too came to respect our porters who whilst still carrying 24 kg (vs our 6-8 kg), could still lend a hand to support, guide and coach us on the difficult sections of the track.

Please pass on my sincere thanks to my porter Gordon for his great effort in looking after me. I'll send you some photos to give him.

As I have said, I'm looking forward to showing you some of our training tracks when you are next in Melbourne. I'm sure we could reassemble the team to look at Glasgow Rd, the Thousand Steps and have a Kalorama coffee and Ned Kelly pie! Please let us know your itinerary.

Regards,

John Paterson

Posted August 18, 2007

We had a fantastic time, as part of the Tallyho Fitness Group, during our trek over the Kokoda Trail, with you, Frank and the porters.  Many thanks to you both for organising a great experience.      

Posted August 11, 2007

Wayne and Michelle,

With special thanks to the "A TEAM" regarding our trek from OWERS to KOKODA 15TH JULY TO 29TH.

I have been back at work for over 2 weeks now and still can't get the whole experience out of my system. It does not help with my computer having a screen saver of random photos from the trip.

Just want to say THANK YOU again for the expert organization from your company which made this tone of the highlights of my life. From the Porters to the Country, the People and the other walkers from my group this was a special adventure. The weather was great, the stories and the laughter will be remembered (especially from the Budgie Smugglers).

The special 50th Birthday, who could have imagined that happening. I have seen Graham already and have exchanged photos. My daughter is pressuring me to do the walk again next year, who knows, but why not.

THANKS AGAIN

COLIN PARTRIDGE

Hello Wayne & Michelle,

Thank you for a great adventure throughout the entire experience of Kokoda.

Having arrived back in Melbourne Sunday week ago and returning to the office on the Monday
the last week has passed very quickly, I keep thinking how nice it was running to a very different time table on the track.

You have certainly offered to me an opportunity of a life time, for which I thank you and your company for a wonderfully organised trek.

Cheers
Graeme Quince

Thank you both so very much for your positive and supportive assistance throughout our journey. The experience was a most positive one for everyone involved.

Cheers

Sean Allcock
Head of Boys Middle School & Deputy Head Haileybury College

Posted August 10, 2007

Hi Wayne and Michelle,

Just wanted to let you know we had a great time on the track the porters were excellent, a fabulous experience. The 3 days on the north coast were surreal, we were treated like kings and all would love to go back there for longer.

Thanks Again,

Craig Dwyer

Posted August 1, 2007

Hi Wayne and Michelle,

Dad and I arrived home after completing the trip from the 2 - 11 July from Ower's Corner to Kokoda.

I have to commend your amazing staff. We were very fortunate to have the BOYS from Bona. All 26 of them were amazing and special thanks goes to my porter Barthy who was always there for me. These BOYS were always singing along the Trail and at camp, dancing for us, holding our hands over the water sections and just making us laugh when the going was tough. The mateship they showed for each other and our group was priceless.

It is strange to be back and not hearing Noel, our trek leader, telling us are we ready to 'rock and roll' for the day ahead. The food was fantastic, didn't even lose any weight as I think I ate more on the Trail than I do at home, the effort the BOYS put into making sure our cutlery and plates were always clean, 8 days of sun, spectacular scenery, tree roots, the history, mud, a couple of toilet seats along the way. All these things made the trip so much fun and very enjoyable.

Thanks again and we are so glad to have gone with Kokoda Spirit.

Kind regards,
Michelle Clarke

Hi Wayne,

On behalf of Jack and myself I would just like to thank Kokoda Spirit for such a sensational trip.

It was one of the best adventures that we have both experienced together.

All the boys on the ground in PNG were fantastic ( I now know what you meant by PNG time)

David, our trek leader was just fantastic, he told me at our last meeting at the Gateway on Saturday night, that he and the other porters didn't think that my son Jack would make it, being the smallest and the youngest. But they were all surprised by his stamina and never give in attitude, which had seen in all the porters ( no matter how big the packs were, boots, bare feet or even just on one thong )

And as for the singing, it was sensational. Abes has some voice, how he can achieve those high notes out of such a big man was amasing.

I would like to wish Kokoda Spirit all the continued success in the years to come as the support you provide for the porters and there families as well as the locals along the track is much needed.

Please send our regards to David, Gideon, Bonny, Abes and all the boys.

Thanks again,
John and Jack Hazell

G’day Wayne

Just only now coming down from the high that was achieved as a result of completing the trek

I believe I owe you, Bonnie and Gideon a huge thank you for shuffling and shifting schedules, charter flights and all manner of pre-organized plans to enable my son and I to participate as planned in what turned out to be a deeply rewarding experience.

As you are aware QANTAS baggage handling in Brisbane leaves little to be desired and that area of their operations clearly needs a good kick up the proverbial.

I dare say that after our experience of all our luggage being left in Brisbane, this was topped off on the way home by the baggage handlers at Brisbane sending one of our party’s luggage to Cairns instead of Melbourne.

Of course QANTAS, our national carrier, took no care and no responsibility, no apologizes for them potentially ruining a trip of a life time.

As you were aware we arrived Saturday afternoon to be flying out to Kokoda the following morning via the chartered flights you had organized. After realization that all our equipment had not arrived, I mean everything, ( had to borrow clothes from some fellow travellers when arriving at the Gateway Hotel ) and knowing that we were scheduled to leave the following morning, combined with the advice from QANTAS representatives that luggage will arrive late the following afternoon, our trek that we had trained 9 months of bloody stairs and steep hills was looking tedious, and me seeing it all fall to pieces, as due to our tight schedule of planned completion of the trek and flying out the following Sunday, time was of the essence.

Looking for someone that I could throttle, blame, abuse, overwhelmed by emotion, I had the good fortune of being able to speak to an experience operator ( thanks again for you patience Wayne ) furthermore, a person whom had level headed friends in charge on the ground ( a huge thank you to Bonnie who is a man to be admired, I can still see him there standing motionless and not saying a word just taking everything in, his mind ticking over for solutions).

As you are aware our group left as per scheduled with us left behind contemplating an expensive chopper flight in, (two days after our main party) and our true Kokoda trek in ruins.

We made the most of the time we had and therefore visited the Bomana War Cemetery under Bonnie’s guidance. Discussions with Bonnie suggested there was a window of opportunity in the afternoon to fly out to Kokoda however as it clouded over at Kokoda in the afternoon the charter flight operators did not like flying too late in the arvo.

Next we found ourselves at the airport dealing with customs getting our luggage from the international terminal at 3pm getting back to the Gateway Hotel stuffing gear into packs (whilst Bonnie was persistently dealing with the pilot of the charter flight whom was getting increasingly toey )

Bonnie advising the pilot, whom was ringing every 2 minutes now, “we were on our way” (when we were still at the Hotel)

Needless to say we only just made it to the charter flight with a non to impressed pilot at the controls.

We managed to weave our way through the storm clouds gathering over the Owen Stanley’s to the pilots credit arriving at Kokoda approx 4.30. There we met Gideon ( a no nonsense Sergeant Major type character whom was a caring sole however did not like to make it obvious )

Our trek truly had begun. We walked into the night through patches of rain, head lamps and torches and fire flies lighting the way, an experience that will never be forgotten by myself and something unique to share with my son, eventually reaching our group, whom were in some cases already asleep after having dinner.

Dinner was no different for us as the boys had it in waiting and before we knew it we were curled up in our sleeping bags pumping ZZZZZZZZ

The next couple of days we sorted ourselves out as our packs were in disarray.

I’d like to express my gratitude to our porters whom were brilliant.

I know as well as any that in operations such as yours, you rely upon your staff and work comrades on the ground to achieve a successful outcome. I have experienced that you have the right people whom practice the correct work ethic to deliver a truly wonderful experience.

Thanks once again!

Rod & Lukas Pemberton
and grateful of the guiding hands of the porters

Posted June 12, 2007

Hi Wayne & Michelle,

We had an amazing experience on the Kokoda trek, made more memorable with the help of the people whom also shared this experience.

Special thanks to Bonnie & Frank for keeping us in the loop of the everyday hurdles we accomplished. Lee, great trek leader, keep up the rock'n'roll John, Michael Rusta, Loson for taking care of Adrian. Jonah (the hardest working person I have ever met!) & Esco for teaching me a thing and two about walking treks, I sincerely appreciate everything they both did to make my walk enjoyable & memorable. Smith for carving my walking stick. All the BOYS, singing was very relaxing at the end of the day over a yummy hot chocolate by the bonfire.

One we will always cherish, thank you! Adrian & Teeqs!

Thanks & Regards
Artika Vandana
Branch Manager
BCAT NSW
Spotless Services Australia Limited

Posted May 24, 2007

Wayne & Michelle

Sorry for the delay in writing this thank you letter but it has taken me a few weeks into the new job to get a chance.

What can I say... the experience of a lifetime. The enormity and emotion of the trek doesn't really set in until you actually get home. At times I felt cold on the track not being affected by the true emotion of the history of the track but now that I am home, I am blown away and utterly speechless in trying to explain the magnitude of my experience to friends and family... and me being speechless is a massive call!

A massive thanks from the bottom of my heart for the opportunity to be a part of the trial with your company. As you know we began booking with you guys as early as Feb 2005 and it was only after extensive research that we chose your crew. I am truly admirable of the laid back nature and extreme commitment to the cause. I can safely say that I would not have had anywhere near the same experience with another company or crew.

A huge thanks to Mack, Gids, Freddy and the boys for being such true gentlemen and soldiers. You are a tribute to the company, yourselves and most importantly your majestic country.

And to the A Team..... no words say enough, thanks for the friendships, memories and the laughs!

You guys rock, see you again soon. I will be coming back!

Nathan Eades
(Doodles)
National Business Development Manager
Red Bull Australia Pty Ltd.

Posted May 9, 2007

Posted May 7, 2007

Wayne and Michelle

I realise it has been 10 days since I have returned from the Kokoda trail but I have not wanted to deal with reality since my return.

I would like to say THANKS for the chance to experience this fantastic trip. It was not one of the things on my 'To do' list and when my friend Tina suggested it I thought she was a bit strange.

All the porters are such wonderful caring people (I wanted to bring Bevan home with me !) I did not really know what I was in for or even really the history behind this trek so I was certainly thrown in the deep end and loved every minute of it. Even wearing your size 10 sandals with socks which my kids would have just died if they had seen me. LOL. The food was great, the people were great, the organisation was great.

Thanks again for a fantastic life experience,

Megan Haylock
"A Team"

Posted May 6, 2007

Posted May 3, 2007

I just wanted to give you a quick email to let you know how much I enjoyed the trek. It was an experience that I will always remember, not only for the mud and numerous ups and downs.  The track is a special place and being at Isurava for the Dawn parade was truly moving. It makes you proud to be an Australian. Also, not enough  can be said about the porters and the amazing job they do. Even though I carried my own pack, the porters are truly modern day fuzzy wuzzy angels. Please pass along our thanks to Helen for finding accommodation when we thought we might be stuck in PNG for an extra night. As it happened we got an 8.30pm flight out.

Regards

Posted April 4, 2007

Posted March 16, 2007

Hi All,

Letter Dated 28 November 2006

To Whom it May Concern:

Re: Mission Australia Kokoda Spirit Challenge – October 2006

Being in the business of managing charity trips all over the world, we deal with ground crews and trek companies on a daily basis.

From the very first contact with Kokoda Spirit their enthusiasm and exceptional customer service shone through with quick responses and a ‘spirit’ which suggested that we had made the right choice in choosing our ground crew and trekking company.

In the lead up to the trek, Wayne Wetherall’s experience and knowledge of all things ‘Kokoda’ was extremely helpful and his ‘no-problems-at-all’ attitude was a credit to him and Kokoda Spirit. Our group certainly pushed the customer service boundaries with a variety of dietary requirements and other requests. Michelle Wetherall was on the ball when it came to forms and travel arrangements and her professionalism permeated through the telephone line whenever we spoke.

Upon arrival in Port Moresby we were met by Bonny and some of the porters who were joining us on the trek. They were all extremely friendly and were buzzing with an energy that made us all feel welcome and very well looked after.

The trek itself was an amazing experience for all of our trekkers. The porters and Kokoda Spirit crew went above and beyond their call of duty to make sure we were all as comfortable as possible and that we were all healthy and happy. They were always there to catch us as we nearly fell and to make us smile and laugh when we hit an emotional or physical brick wall. Their songs and laughter will forever be remembered and their presence on the trek enhanced our overall experience. Many of our trekkers made friends for life and have not stopped talking about the ‘Kokoda Spirit Boys’ since they got back.

Trek Masters Adrian and Gideon were very experienced and knowledgeable. They led our group with an attitude and leadership skills which were inspirational to us all. They dealt with any problems with the greatest of ease and were always on the ball and full of energy.

We would not hesitate to recommend Kokoda Spirit to anyone considering undertaking the Kokoda trail. Amongst the other groups which we on the trail at the same time as us, we got a sense that we were definitely being looked after better. Trekkers from other groups would gather around our porters at night to listen to them sing. No doubt they would have headed back to their tents in awe of the spirit which our porters exuded and would have been kicking themselves they took an alternative trekking company.

Based on our experience, any future customer of Kokoda Spirit should be pleased with their demonstrated commitment to customer service as well as their knowledge of the Kokoda trail and the requirements for a successful and memorable trek.

Sincerely,

Justine Curtis
Director
Pollen Fundraising

November 15, 2006

Dear Wayne/Michelle

Michelle following up our conversation about my experience on the trail on Mon. 25/09/06.thank you for talking & suggesting that I send an email to Wayne.

On 25/09/06 I was trekking from Hoi having started from Kokoda the previous day having booked the trip with Nuigini Tours. On the night of 24th I became quite dehydrated which continued into the next morning as I started to walk over the next 4 hours, I became weak, losing fluids, getting a little disorientated, I was really struggling. It was at this point that my luck changed, coming in the opposite direction was Adrian & three others. On seeing my condition he immediately took the initiative & took control of the situation. Recommending that I turn back as I was never going to make it to the next overnight camp, which was another 6 hours away. He said that he would kindly stay with me until we got back to Hoi City. Adrian spoke to my head guide, who really did show minimal concern about my condition. Relieved, I decided to turn back with Adrian & his party, from your company KOKODA SPIRIT.

Over the next 4 hours I progressively felt worse & literally needed a hand as we returned to HOI . Step by step Adrian encourage me to go at my own pace & reassured me of my progress. Over the next 4 hours , Adrian & I became close & built up a strong rapport/friendship that I will never forget .He also tried to radio out but to no avail. My day ended up being 10 hours of walking.

My highest praise must go to your employees Adrian Koe & his three team members. On that day his professionalism, help, genuine concern, expertise & overwhelming ‘CARE’ towards me & my reliant situation will never be forgotten.

Wayne I am a middle aged man of 50 years & have been managed my own businesses for over 25 years: may I say that the customer service displayed towards me on that day was of the highest order, to Adrian it did not matter that I was not with KOKODA SPIRIT - he just showed tremendous concern for his fellow man & this goodwill will never be forgotten!!

Wayne congratulations for employing “exceptional people” & for conducting a very professional tour company & although unfortunately I did not travel with KOKODA SPIRiT on this occasion, I do have many friends that I can recommend your company to that intend to do the KOKODA TRAIL.

My condition on returning to Sydney was that I was admitted to hospital with early stages of kidney failure due to dehydration & had I left it much longer could have been critical, if not fatal. Yes, I was disappointed that my trip was cut short but the positive being that I may never meet a man called Adrian ( a modern day Fuzzy Wuzzy in the real sense of the word.)

Wayne, finally

1. Please use this letter as a testimonial if ever the need arises for your company.

2.  Please would you be so kind as to read this email to Adrian & the boys for me.

3.  I will write Adrian a letter &,send it to him via you, as Michelle suggested. I would really love to hear from him, so as we may keep in touch.

THAT WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

THANK YOU ONCE AGAIN ADRIAN

YOURS TRULY : RICK SULLIVAN  (KNOWN TO ADRIAN AS : “RICKY” )